Chin Care
Getting to know your chin:
Again, patience is the key here, too. Chins have long memories about things they don't like, and short ones on things they do like. Give a new chin a week or so to become accustomed to his new environment by leaving him to explore his cage. Then let your chin explore you by putting your hand in the cage and letting them come to sniff it. Slowly move your arm into the cage and you can even put your face up to the door. Let them sniff you and even nibble your eyebrows or lashes, but don't try grabbing them; they are very curious animals and it won't take long for them to come to you. You can "bribe" them with a treat, like a rose hip or mallva flower, by putting one in your hand or on your shoulder.
If you let them run at night, sitting on the floor or near the area they're exploring is also a good idea as they'll usually run up and investigate you. Soon they will begin to associate you as a supplier of food and treats, as well as affection and other good things. Our chins will also go back to their cages when they're tired of running and assume the "road-kill" position, where they lie down and look like a puddle of chinchilla. They are just fine, though, they're just exhausted, and will probably doze for a bit.
Grooming:
Chins take care of their own fur, they only require the occasional dust bath. Grooming them either with a brush or a fine-tooth comb is generally done when chins are shown. When combing or brushing, always brush from the rear forward and always brush against the grain of the fur. Our chins usually get their dust bath while they are out running. Once in a while you may need to give a chin an actual bath - either because of a spraying mate, or a fight in the nursing cage. You can always use shampoos for cats, but nothing with flea insecticides or any other additives, and make sure you dry the chin completely with a towel and blow dry their fur on a warm setting. DO NOT LEAVE THEM WET! They could get sick and even get pneumonia, so make sure they're as dry as you can possibly get them before putting them back in the cage.
Introducing Chins:
Sometimes it takes a long time to introduce new chinchillas to each other, sometimes not. Young chins are more forgiving, but hormones can be developing and make them aggressive, too. We recommend placing the chins in separate cages side by side for at least two weeks and maybe more to allow them to get used to each other's smell. Then switch the cages, putting them in the other's cage. Eventually they can be put in a neutral or clean cage together, but always be available to watch them and if necessary to intervene. Patience is the key here, keep trying and keep them close to each other. Some chilla's will take to anyone, and some will chew each other up first.
Breeding:
Male chins are able to breed at the tender age of 8-10 weeks old. Females are not fertile until about 6-8 months old, although some breeders have had the odd female that became pregnant at the age of 4 months. It's definitely better to have the females wait until they are at least eight months and older if possible, this gives them time to mature and achieve their maximum growth, especially in the pelvic region. Gestation is about 111 days from the day of mating, give or take a day or two. A litter can be one or up to six chins, but usually is one to two babies. Babies usually arrive in the wee hours of the morning but at times will appear later in the day. A mum chin will labor for about an hour to an hour and a half with a baby and afterward clean the baby and dry it underneath her. If she has more than one baby it may be necessary for the breeder to interfere here and dry the first baby if she leaves it to move about the cage in her labor. A metal nest box then is a handy thing especially if you can mount a heating pad under it to keep babies warm while mom is out of the box. The pads made to warm reptiles are great for this, we duct tape them to the bottom and they supply just enough warmth. Mom will also appreciate the warmth while pregnant too. Females also have two uteruses and will go into estrus immediately after birth so it may be necessary to remove the male a day or two before she delivers but keep him close in a nearby cage if you wish to reintroduce him later. He can be returned then after about 72 hours and will help out immensely with the babies. Afterward the babies will be well taken care of by both mom and dad and will be ready to be weaned at about 8 weeks old. Average sized babies are anywhere from 25 grams to 60 grams and of course bigger is always better and gives them a better chance of survival. They will start eating pellets and hay at about two weeks old, and are able to run about the cage from day one.
